Shikargah Banarasi Saree: The Hunting-Scene Weave

What is a shikargah Banarasi saree?

Shikargah means hunting ground, or a place for the hunt. In Banarasi weaving, a shikargah saree is one whose design shows hunting scenes set among trees, flowers and creepers.

Where the design comes from

The shikargah draws on the tradition of Mughal-era miniature painting, in which hunting scenes were a popular subject, as were courtly processions and gardens. Weavers translated that visual language into silk and zari. The result is a textile that reads like a painting.

The design is unusual in Banarasi work because it features figures. Much Banarasi design relies on floral, foliage and geometric motifs, so a saree with people and animals stands out. For the wider vocabulary of motifs, see Banarasi motifs explained, and for the background, our piece on the history of Banarasi silk weaving.

What you will see on one

• Hunters on horseback or elephants, sometimes with spears or bows
• Animals: tigers, deer, antelope, birds and sometimes other creatures
• A woven landscape: trees, creepers, flowers and sometimes architecture
• A rhythmic layout, with scenes repeated across the body and a more elaborate pallu

The figures are small and finely worked, so a shikargah rewards close looking.

How it is woven

A shikargah is demanding to weave. Each figure is built from many threads, and the placement of rider, animal and foliage must be planned in advance. A designer maps the pattern thread by thread, and the weaver brings it to life on the loom. The finer the figures, the more skill and time the saree takes.

Because of this, genuine, finely worked shikargah sarees tend to be among the more valued Banarasi pieces. For why the effort matters to price, see why Banarasi sarees are expensive.

Shikargah compared with other designs

See our katan jungla guide for the plant-based counterpart.

How to judge quality

• 1. Look at the figures. Riders, animals and trees should have clear outlines. Blurry or distorted figures suggest rushed work.
• 2. Check the spacing. The scenes should be balanced, with no crowding or awkward gaps.
• 3. Look at the pallu. It is usually the most detailed part, so it shows the weaver's skill.
• 4. Turn it over. The reverse should be neat, with short, tidy thread ends.
• 5. Ask about the zari and the loom. Request the zari type and the loom (handloom or powerloom) in writing. See real vs fake zari and handloom vs powerloom.
• 6. Check the silk. Look for the Silk Mark and a clear fibre statement.

Who should choose a shikargah?

Choose one if you:

• Love storytelling in textiles and want a saree with a talking point
• Collect heritage weaves or want an heirloom
• Are choosing a gift for someone who appreciates craft

If you prefer purely floral or abstract designs, a jungla or buti saree may suit you better.

A note on taste: some people prefer not to wear figurative designs. If that matters to you or your family, a floral Banarasi is a better choice.

Styling

• Let the saree lead. The design is the statement, so keep the blouse simple, in a solid colour drawn from the saree.
• Show the pallu. A drape that displays it, such as the Gujarati style, lets the scene be seen. See our draping guide.
• Keep jewellery restrained. One statement piece is plenty.
• Display it too. Many collectors frame the pallu or display the saree at home.

Care

Handle a shikargah as you would a collectable.

• Dry clean only, with a specialist who knows silk and zari.
• Store folded in muslin, and refold every few months so creases do not set in the same place. For heavily worked pallus, some owners store the saree rolled or hung in cloth.
• Keep it away from damp, light, perfume and rough surfaces.
• Wear it with care, avoiding jewellery that could snag the zari.

See our storage guide.

Further reading on shikargah banarasi saree: Banarasi sari on Wikipedia.

Frequently Asked Questions